Small, resilient, but not invasive, plants to grow in between stepping stones? - Ask Extension
I have a 30' long bluestone flagstone pathway in part sun. I would like to plant something in between the flagstones now that they have been cleaned a...
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Small, resilient, but not invasive, plants to grow in between stepping stones? #873419
Asked June 17, 2024, 11:43 AM EDT
I have a 30' long bluestone flagstone pathway in part sun. I would like to plant something in between the flagstones now that they have been cleaned and I can see there is intact dirt between the pavers that will soon grow weeds (that I had to remove before cleaning!). The pathway is a gentle, well drained slope. We walk along the path several times a week. Our small dog walks along the path several times a day. I would like the plants to not die down in the winter and to be low maintenance.
Howard County Maryland
Expert Response
Cristina, you don't mention the light conditions - sun, shade, etc. This is important as there are many plants that would suit the site but need full sun. Also, a picture or two would be very helpful.
Thanks!
Thanks!
It gets about 4-6 hours of sun a day. Pictures are attached.
The selection challenge will be a plant that does not lose foliage for winter; most groundcovers, especially ground-hugging types, will go fully dormant and won't be evergreen. We can provide some suggestions, but it won't be an exhaustive list, and not many (at least among species best-suited to our mid-Atlantic climate and which aren't invasive) will thrive if directly walked-on often. Finding starter plants small enough to plant between the existing stone gaps might be challenging for some of the species below.
Miri
- Partridgeberry (Mitchella repens) -- native; evergreen; fairly slow to spread; showy, small white flowers and red berries (we do not know if this will pose an edibility problem for the dog, so check with a vet since we don't have medical training regarding plant toxicity for pets)
- Irish Moss (Sagina subulata) or Scotch Moss (the golden 'Aurea' cultivar of the same plant) -- evergreen; slow to spread; not a true moss, and can flower, though the tiny white blooms are not highly decorative
- true mosses, which may just arrive on their own if the soil is compacted and damp enough; otherwise some companies do sell starter kits to "seed" (spread spores, really) moss into new areas
- Violets (Viola, many species) -- many are native, but the non-natives tend to be non-invasive; at a few inches tall, they might be higher than you want, but several species are pretty tolerant of foot traffic abuse; Viola walteri 'Silver Gem' is not locally native (but the species is a U.S. native), but is becoming more readily available as a decorative groundcover
- Woodland Stonecrop (Sedum ternatum) -- native; evergreen (though can turn pinkish); slow to spread; more fragile, in the sense that sprawling stems will break off if stepped on too much, but the pieces might root into gaps and survive as new plants
- Grassy-leaved Sweet Flag (specifically the dwarf, golden-leaved cultivar Acorus gramineus ‘Minimus Aureus’ because it stays only a few inches high) -- fairly evergreen; yellow-striped foliage; creeping and grass-like (though perhaps clumpier) in appearance
- Creeping Thyme (Thymus, several species) might get enough sun to do well, if the soil drains very well; aromatic foliage; not reliably evergreen, but can bloom
- Dwarf Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon japonicus 'Nana') -- evergreen; slow to spread; grass-like appearance and does not need mowing; tufted at first, but will eventually fill-in to form more of a carpet, at least where stone gaps are large enough
- Blue Star Creeper (Isotoma fluviatilis, also named Laurentia fluviatilis) -- might stay evergreen; faster growth than many of the above species; moderate foot traffic tolerance
Miri
