Controlled burn timing for pollinator crop seeding - Ask Extension
When is the best time for a controlled burn prior to planting a pollinator crop - either by broadcast seeding (frost seeding or spring sowing)? Which ...
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Controlled burn timing for pollinator crop seeding #873292
Asked June 16, 2024, 8:16 AM EDT
When is the best time for a controlled burn prior to planting a pollinator crop - either by broadcast seeding (frost seeding or spring sowing)? Which combination of buring with either frost seeding or spring sowing works the best?
How do these planting methods compare with the efficiency of a drill, i.e., is less seed / better germination expected with a drill?
When is the best time to burn in the fall? In the spring it would seem any time before green up.
Ingham County Michigan
Expert Response
Hi John,
Thanks for reaching out through Ask Extension! I listed several helpful resources on large-scale pollinator habitat below. I'll assign your question to Meghan Milbrath to respond to your specific questions.
Large-scale Pollinator Planting - Michigan Pollinator Initiative (msu.edu) lists many resources, including:
- Case studies of individuals who have installed pollinator planting in Michigan
- Prairie strips: A case study on improving farming yields and pollinator habitat by transforming unprofitable farmland into prairie
- Somewhere for the pollinators to go: A case study of establishing large-scale pollinator habitat
- Pocket of paradise: A second case study of establishing large-scale prairie planting
- A refuge for pollinators: A case study of establishing large-scale pollinator habitat on marginal farmland using federal funds
- Guides for installing large-scale pollinator habitat
Thanks Ana!
Lots of good reading here.
John
Hi John -
The timing and prep really depends on what you are burning off, and whether you can get a burn that can kill the competitive plants. Native seeds need two things for success: soil contact on seeding, and not to be too crowded during establishment.
A fall burn can be great to get rid of all the thatch that prevents seeds from having soil contact, but it often won't kill cool-season grasses, which can be really competitive to your new natives.
I would reach out to your county conservation district, and see if your county biologist can give you site-specific information, based on what plants are already on your intended site. If you don't have very competitive plants (e.g. lots of biannuals like ragweed), then you may not have to do that much site prep. If you have reed canary grass or other grasses, you may want to do more extensive site prep.
The timing and prep really depends on what you are burning off, and whether you can get a burn that can kill the competitive plants. Native seeds need two things for success: soil contact on seeding, and not to be too crowded during establishment.
A fall burn can be great to get rid of all the thatch that prevents seeds from having soil contact, but it often won't kill cool-season grasses, which can be really competitive to your new natives.
I would reach out to your county conservation district, and see if your county biologist can give you site-specific information, based on what plants are already on your intended site. If you don't have very competitive plants (e.g. lots of biannuals like ragweed), then you may not have to do that much site prep. If you have reed canary grass or other grasses, you may want to do more extensive site prep.
