Thank you for your question. We apologize for our delay in responding as we have been completely swamped by questions.

I would like to make a few comments about certain points in your question.

1). The slow green up of your turf, and its browning during the summer season, are typical of bluegrass. Although you did not mention the type of grass you have, I suspect that it is largely bluegrass. If you wanted to address these matters, consider over-seeding your lawn in the fall with one or more varieties of creeping fescue. This type of grass greens up quicker than bluegrass and better retains its color during mid to late summer. This would reduce to a degree the amount of watering that needs to occur.

2). I would strongly suggest that you do analyses of the soil from various parts of your yard. This would provide you valuable information as to soil texture and what degree of fertilizing you need to do. The University of Minnesota has an excellent testing laboratory where such analyses (for a small fee) can be done. If you pursue this route, we would be glad to assist you in the interpretation of the results. See:

https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/testing-services/lawn-garden

3). With respect to fertilizing, our customary suggestion is to do this only twice a year – early spring and early fall. This contrasts to the four fertilizer applications they do per season. This is too excessive for most Minnesota lawns.

4). You may find the following lawn care calendar to be useful:

https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lawn-care-calendar

5). Leaving grass clippings on the yard is great. Continue doing this. In a similar vein, consider getting a mulching blade (really two blades in one) for your power mower and use this to reduce fallen leaves into small pieces that can remain on the turf.

6). I am a bit concerned about your use of Roundup for quack grass control. Unless you are very cautious and prudent in its application, adjacent grass could be killed. See:

https://lcslawn.com/blog/quack-grass/ - :~:text=Never rototill where quack grass is growing.&text=Apply the herbicide only on,, sponge mop, or applicator.

https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/quackgrass_control_in_turf

https://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/weed/grass/quackgrass.html

https://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/weed/idlist.html - 10

7). Aeration is best performed in the fall and only needs to be done every three years or so.

Overall, I applaud your efforts to date. For the most part, you are doing everything right. See the following:

https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/lawn-care

https://www.pca.state.mn.us/sites/default/files/p-tr1-05.pdf

Good luck. Please get back to us with any further, related questions. Thanks for consulting us.