Clover Lawn - Ask Extension
Earlier this spring, we had landscaping done to direct water away from our house. This involved stripping the sod. I took this opportunity to try to...
Knowledgebase
Clover Lawn #871453
Asked June 04, 2024, 8:48 AM EDT
Earlier this spring, we had landscaping done to direct water away from our house. This involved stripping the sod. I took this opportunity to try to introduce an all-clover lawn. In spite of putting down at least four times the recommended amount of seed and in spite of trying to seed the patches, the lawn has lots of bare spots.
Baltimore County Maryland
Expert Response
It's hard to see enough detail in the photo to determine what might be going on, but soil quality (compacted, for instance) can influence germination and establishment, as can watering practices post-sowing, since germinating seed has little tolerance for drying out. Does the area receive full sun (6-8 or more hours of unobstructed light in summer)? Clover is not very shade-tolerant.
Overall, we don't recommend an all-clover lawn or lawn substitute. It loses leaves in winter, and during that period, bare soil can accumulate weed seeds and/or be vulnerable to erosion, even though the clover roots remain alive and will hold onto some of it. None of the clover growing in or in place of lawns in Maryland is native to North America. When clover is mixed with turfgrass, the type used should be "microclover," as it's easier to blend in with turf given its reduced aggressive growth.
If you are open to it, we suggest instead converting the area to a mix of groundcovers, chosen to match the site conditions (sunny versus semi-shade, damp versus drier, etc.). A mix of species will be much more resilient than using only one species en masse, since different species have different vulnerabilities and tolerances to stresses, allowing some to thrive if others temporarily struggle. We recently revised our groundcovers page to include sample plant lists for certain conditions, using both native or non-native (but non-invasive) species.
The soil in the photo appears to be poor, in the sense that it looks low in organic matter (the component making rich soil look dark brown or brown-black) and potentially also compacted. Amending the area with compost or good-quality topsoil may help if you wanted to try sowing clover (or any other seed) again, or even if you choose to install plants. A core aerator machine, used to aerate lawns, can help to partially mix-in compost while also reducing compaction a bit. Avoid areas with lots of shallow tree roots, though, so they aren't damaged by the machine.
Miri
Overall, we don't recommend an all-clover lawn or lawn substitute. It loses leaves in winter, and during that period, bare soil can accumulate weed seeds and/or be vulnerable to erosion, even though the clover roots remain alive and will hold onto some of it. None of the clover growing in or in place of lawns in Maryland is native to North America. When clover is mixed with turfgrass, the type used should be "microclover," as it's easier to blend in with turf given its reduced aggressive growth.
If you are open to it, we suggest instead converting the area to a mix of groundcovers, chosen to match the site conditions (sunny versus semi-shade, damp versus drier, etc.). A mix of species will be much more resilient than using only one species en masse, since different species have different vulnerabilities and tolerances to stresses, allowing some to thrive if others temporarily struggle. We recently revised our groundcovers page to include sample plant lists for certain conditions, using both native or non-native (but non-invasive) species.
The soil in the photo appears to be poor, in the sense that it looks low in organic matter (the component making rich soil look dark brown or brown-black) and potentially also compacted. Amending the area with compost or good-quality topsoil may help if you wanted to try sowing clover (or any other seed) again, or even if you choose to install plants. A core aerator machine, used to aerate lawns, can help to partially mix-in compost while also reducing compaction a bit. Avoid areas with lots of shallow tree roots, though, so they aren't damaged by the machine.
Miri
Thank you very much for this information. I am going to investigate the ground cover listed on your website and see what I can begin to plant now. Before that, i will aerate the bald areas and amend with our compost. And i will be sure to water until the plants are established!
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