Chameleon Plants - Ask Extension
Chameleon Plants are an aggressive invasive plant, any suggestions to get rid?
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Knowledgebase
Chameleon Plants #871447
Asked June 04, 2024, 6:31 AM EDT
Chameleon Plants are an aggressive invasive plant, any suggestions to get rid?
https://www.picturethisai.com/s/0Z4edSQB?is_client=1
Montgomery County Maryland
Expert Response
You will likely have to resort to using a systemic herbicide to kill the chameleon plant (Houttuynia) roots. Repeat treatments with an herbicide are often necessary for established patches of this aggressive weed. Follow all label directions for the most low-risk, effective application of the chemical chosen.
Some products may allow for (or even encourage) the addition of a surfactant upon mixing a solution for application. Surfactants, also called spreader-stickers or adjuvants, are additives that help a herbicide adhere to the leaves (in this case) or work more effectively. These products are sold alongside herbicides in garden centers since the two are often combined for certain uses, though not every product benefits from their use, so always verify this with the label usage details.
Early autumn may be the most efficient time of year to attempt herbicide treatments on perennial plants since the leaves will be transporting carbohydrates down into the roots for winter storage, and the absorbed chemical will then be able to move into the root system to kill it. Be aware that plants successfully treated (any time of year) might not show obvious signs of dieback for days or even a week or more after application, but it doesn't mean the application isn't working.
If you wish to avoid herbicides, your only recourse will be to physically remove what you can by digging out roots and constantly trimming down all above-ground growth so the plant cannot photosynthesize. Every time it can regrow for a while, the plant is recharging the root's energy reserves for continued regrowth. If you can deplete the plant's energy, they'll eventually stop returning. This method might take years to achieve full eradication for well-established weeds, and will only work well if you have full access to the continuous patch.
(For example, if part of the plant's spread continues into a neighbor's yard that isn't able to be controlled because you can't access it or they aren't willing to help combat it, that foliage could still fuel regrowth back onto your side unless you install some sort of barrier along the property line.)
Denying the foliage light instead by smothering the patch with a light-blocking tarp probably won't work as well for this plant as it might for other weeds because this species could just keep creeping outside of the covered area to resume growing.
Christa
Some products may allow for (or even encourage) the addition of a surfactant upon mixing a solution for application. Surfactants, also called spreader-stickers or adjuvants, are additives that help a herbicide adhere to the leaves (in this case) or work more effectively. These products are sold alongside herbicides in garden centers since the two are often combined for certain uses, though not every product benefits from their use, so always verify this with the label usage details.
Early autumn may be the most efficient time of year to attempt herbicide treatments on perennial plants since the leaves will be transporting carbohydrates down into the roots for winter storage, and the absorbed chemical will then be able to move into the root system to kill it. Be aware that plants successfully treated (any time of year) might not show obvious signs of dieback for days or even a week or more after application, but it doesn't mean the application isn't working.
If you wish to avoid herbicides, your only recourse will be to physically remove what you can by digging out roots and constantly trimming down all above-ground growth so the plant cannot photosynthesize. Every time it can regrow for a while, the plant is recharging the root's energy reserves for continued regrowth. If you can deplete the plant's energy, they'll eventually stop returning. This method might take years to achieve full eradication for well-established weeds, and will only work well if you have full access to the continuous patch.
(For example, if part of the plant's spread continues into a neighbor's yard that isn't able to be controlled because you can't access it or they aren't willing to help combat it, that foliage could still fuel regrowth back onto your side unless you install some sort of barrier along the property line.)
Denying the foliage light instead by smothering the patch with a light-blocking tarp probably won't work as well for this plant as it might for other weeds because this species could just keep creeping outside of the covered area to resume growing.
Christa
