best way to compost yard wastes - Ask Extension
My townhouse community started a compost area last year for yard wastes. We set it up with concrete blocks standing on end, 2 x 4's on top of the bloc...
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best way to compost yard wastes #871262
Asked June 03, 2024, 10:25 AM EDT
My townhouse community started a compost area last year for yard wastes. We set it up with concrete blocks standing on end, 2 x 4's on top of the blocks, and hardware cloth stapled to the 2 x 4's. Yard wastes were piles on top of the hardware cloth with the thought that, as compost formed, it would fall down through the hardware cloth. The area was used more than we expected and we now have huge piles of leaves and clippings with large branches mixed in. It doesn't seem to be composting yet but the area nearby where stuff was piled directly on the ground does. But, of course, that compost will be difficult to get to. Should we be separating the branches from the smaller stuff? It doesn't get much sun so could that also be a problem? Should we add something to get it going? Do we need to water it? What do you recommend about the design? Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
Baltimore City County Maryland
Expert Response
Hi-
1. don't mix sticks, branches and other woody materials with the leaves, spent herbaceous plants, and grass clippings (not treated with herbicides). Either use a chipper to chip the woody materials and use them as wood chip mulch or let the City haul it away as yard waste.
2. the elevated approach you've taken can work well for vermicomposting with worms but not so well for yardwaste. We suggest locating the bins on top of the ground. Hard surfaces are less desirable because of the potential for nutrient run-off.
Many community gardens and schools use a 3-bin system with each bean no greater than 4-ft. X 4 ft. X 4 ft. (3X3X3 is very common). The idea is to put fresh materials in Bin 1, flip the contents to bin 2 after 2-4 weeks, and then to bin 3 for final decomposition and/or storage. You can modify as needed. For example, you could just fill each bin with fresh materials and let the contents passively and slowly decompose (6-9 months).
3-bin plans and information (hardware cloth works well to cover the frames:
https://www.uaex.uada.edu/publications/PDF/FSA-6030.pdf
https://www.piercecountywa.gov/DocumentCenter/View/1176/ThreeBinDIY?bidId=
https://ecommons.cornell.edu/items/3c48ecaf-bd92-470b-ac9b-fa82d36279a6
A lid is not absolutely necessary but i It can help prevent waterlogging during wet weather and help maintain more even moisture levels.
The amount of sun the bins receive has no impact on the rate of decomposition.
You can hasten the process through passive aeration- lay several 2-3 in. diameter PVC pipes (open-ended and with a series of holes drilled along the length) at the bottom of the bins to bring in fresh air.
There are lots of good YT videos on these subjects.
Jon
1. don't mix sticks, branches and other woody materials with the leaves, spent herbaceous plants, and grass clippings (not treated with herbicides). Either use a chipper to chip the woody materials and use them as wood chip mulch or let the City haul it away as yard waste.
2. the elevated approach you've taken can work well for vermicomposting with worms but not so well for yardwaste. We suggest locating the bins on top of the ground. Hard surfaces are less desirable because of the potential for nutrient run-off.
Many community gardens and schools use a 3-bin system with each bean no greater than 4-ft. X 4 ft. X 4 ft. (3X3X3 is very common). The idea is to put fresh materials in Bin 1, flip the contents to bin 2 after 2-4 weeks, and then to bin 3 for final decomposition and/or storage. You can modify as needed. For example, you could just fill each bin with fresh materials and let the contents passively and slowly decompose (6-9 months).
3-bin plans and information (hardware cloth works well to cover the frames:
https://www.uaex.uada.edu/publications/PDF/FSA-6030.pdf
https://www.piercecountywa.gov/DocumentCenter/View/1176/ThreeBinDIY?bidId=
https://ecommons.cornell.edu/items/3c48ecaf-bd92-470b-ac9b-fa82d36279a6
A lid is not absolutely necessary but i It can help prevent waterlogging during wet weather and help maintain more even moisture levels.
The amount of sun the bins receive has no impact on the rate of decomposition.
You can hasten the process through passive aeration- lay several 2-3 in. diameter PVC pipes (open-ended and with a series of holes drilled along the length) at the bottom of the bins to bring in fresh air.
There are lots of good YT videos on these subjects.
Jon
