Knowledgebase
EFB #870565
Asked May 29, 2024, 10:57 AM EDT
St. Clair County Michigan
Expert Response
I'm sorry you are dealing with EFB. It can be quite frustrating. Thanks for the useful background and clear questions! I'm happy to follow up with Adam too to clear up any places where our messaging doesn't align, and happy to provide more info on EFB.
1). First and foremost Adam did not recommend removing affected brood frames, only "heavy" pollen frames. Should I leave the affected brood frames in, and presuming if so the bees will clean them out?
In general, when you are culling frames (replacing 10 -20% of your frames each year), we recommend targeting heavy pollen frames. However, there is no evidence that this would help clear up EFB, and this is not a standard recommendation for EFB (I work a lot with EFB, and this is not what I would recommend, or what others generally recommend).
You can remove the heavily infected brood frames, though it will not guarantee that it will fully treat the disease. You will be removing a lot of the infectious material, and you will also give the queen a chance to 'reset' her pattern - she will be able to lay again in concentric circles, rather than filling in holes.
Some people do recommend a "Partial Shook swarm"
https://www.mdpi.com/2077-0472/13/2/363
This is where you remove the brood nest (all the brood). A full shook swarm is where you remove all the frames. There are also studies that use a full shook swarm as well, often combined with antibiotics.
2). Many of the affected brood frames still have the typical small ring of pollen surrounding. Presuming that's okay and only the large pollen frames on the outside of the boxes are the one's that need to be removed?
There are no pollen frames that need to be removed.
3.). Several of the pollen frames I removed have heavy nectar as well. Am I okay to cut out and bury pollen and freeze the nectar until fall so the nectar can be robbed, or am I taking a chance of spreading EFB by doing that. I just hate to have all that nectar go to waste.
The bacteria that causes EFB can live in honey, on wood, in wax, and as you found out with your packages, in adult bees. Just removing the pollen will not make a difference in reducing your risk, so it doesn't really matter what you do with the nectar. In general, however, incoming nectar is very low risk for having pathogens, so I would be inclined to leave in the hive.
4). Planning on inspecting every 4-5 days to look for an increase in normal brood. How soon and how much brood would you expect to see if I colony is bouncing back.
I would not recommend inspecting that often, because it would be so disruptive. Here are some key points about EFB and what I would recommend:
EFB has very high rates of inapparent infection. This means that if you see the disease in a few colonies in the yard, you should assume that other (or all) of the colonies will have the bacteria present. Just treating the ones with signs will not eradicate it from your operation. It is really common to have different hives be affected each year.
The bacteria that causes EFB is very persistent. Once it is in an operation, it generally stays in an operation unless drastic measures are taken to eradicate it. Drastic measures would be full shook swarms onto new equipment.
It would make sense to aim for eradication if you have a low chance of re-infection - If you have a closed apiary (are committed to not importing packages and nucs), and if you are in a remote area, far from other colonies.
If you do shook swarms on all your colonies, and destroy all your equipment, and then you get re-infected, that would be very expensive. So, if you live in a place where re-infection is likely, then we focus on Control. This means that you want to control the spread of disease with a colony, and you want to control the spread from hive to hive.
There is a very strong seasonal cycle to EFB - we see a lot in spring, and lower levels in the fall (and winter for migratory beekeepers). Often the disease self-resolves (goes away).
- Sometimes, the EFB infection can be mild, and you can use watchful waiting - take good notes on the level of infection (approximate number of cells or frames with disease signs), and see if it increases or decreases when you do your next inspection (1 -2 weeks).
- You can also work with a veterinarian to access antibiotics and apply them early in the season (before the honey flow), if you have had a problem this year, it is very likely that you will have a problem next year, so you could set up a relationship with a vet now to make sure they are available.
- You could do a partial or full shook swarm (You could do that this year, but it is getting kind of late), or you could plan to do it next year.
- If you don't want to destroy all of your equipment in one year, you could split your yards into "dirty" and "clean", and do a step-wise eradication. Shake the "clean" yard onto new equipment (foundation), and give them antibiotics, and give the old brood and equipment to the colonies that already have the bacteria. Then next year, you can do the same with a smaller number.
I feel like I've just been punched in the gut! After losing Varorra for a couple years, I finally had a "what for" moment, or I should say a " s*** or get off the pot" moment as I absolutely HATED being one of "those" who was sending infected bees in the world and being part of the problem vs. the solution. So now, finally after doing my homework and getting on top of Varorra, this past winter I successfully overwintered 5 of 5. That said, I bought 3 new packages, have made successful splits, have queen cells being made and felt like I finally was on top of the curve on my beekeeping! So sorry to vent, but hearing this is very deflating.
So here I sit today with nearly all my assets being used. With only about 10 frames of comb and 30 more foundation I find myself in this dilemma. First thoughts are to go to the smallest and most infected, replacing the infected brood with new comb. That will finish out my drawn comb and brings up a couple questions. You said the pollen / nectar are not affected, and I have 12 of those frames I just removed from the two infected colonies currently in the freezer. Does that mean they still can be used, and if so, also on other colonies, or should I keep infected material in infected hives? Secondly, when burning my infected comb, are you talking about woodenware too? You had mentioned the bacteria can be in everything.
Sorry, perhaps I'm speaking in a reactive mode and not absorbing completely what you said before responding, but I just feel like I'm spiraling downward. Didn't see anything suspect on my recent inspections in the other colonies, but only went deep enough to look for eggs, so will definitely look more thorough next inspection and get some records going on level of infestation, if any.
Don't expect you're heading to Port Huron anytime soon are you? :(
So current thought right now is to remove infected brood and replace with comb / foundation. I will get with our local Vet and see what's needed for the antibiotic. From what you're saying, this is not for honey flow and I've got honey coming in now, so presuming I'd be looking at it early next Spring. This is much more involved than I had anticipated, and thought worse case would just be culling the two colonies and my problems would be gone, but it doesn't sound like that's the case.
FYI, I have beekeepers within appx. 5 miles, but I would say for the most part I'm isolated. I'm in a rural area and I believe there's enough forage around to keep my bees closer t home. I don't know of any beekeepers within close proximity to me and am hoping the three packages I bought will be the last time I"ll need to buy bees. Do you believe the EFB could have come on the bees from the packages?
Thanks very much for taking the time to respond in such detail. Can't tell you how much I appreciate it.
Mike
You can very legitimately do nothing this year, and make a calm plan for eradication next year. As I mentioned, watchful waiting is one of your options. Remember, beekeeping is a life long learning endeavor, and you are in the middle of getting some valuable experience that you can gain from. Two big lessons are 1) don't buy bees - if you are overwintering, just grow from your splits. The sooner you close your apiary, the better. 2) Don't grow too fast until you have lots of spare drawn comb. Plan on only doubling.
If you give me a number I can call, I can talk through some of your options, and we can work on a biosecurity and treatment plan that is specific to your operation.
Thank you for responding. I've "detoxed" somewhat and am past the desperation I felt the other day. Since then, I've taken as step back and am immersed in RV issue's, and while I would very much appreciated a phone call, I would like to have the weekend to try and absorb and read up on more information on EFB prior to speaking with you. My immediate thought right now is that since I'm limited on resources, I might combine a split I have so I have more resources to install in the affect colonies, but, again, I'd like to read up and look more into it this weekend. And yes, you are correct!! I am contemplating continuing on from H2H to the Master Beekeeping course offered through the University of Nebraska and this should be viewed as a learning experience!! All things happen for a reason right? My phone number is<personal data hidden>. I'm usually working outside or running around, so would it be best to set up a day / time next week? I'm sure you are far busier than I am so this is my schedule and if you pick a day and time, I'll put it on the calendar.
Thank you,
Mike
Mon- Anytime after noon
Tues- Anytime after noon
Wed- Open
Thurs- Anytime after 1pm
Fri- Open
Got it, same to you.....
Hello,
Before our call Monday I thought it best to give you a snapshot of my apiaries. Looks like I can only upload 3 of the 4 pictures, so will talk about the 4th and try to send in another message, however if the 4th doesn't send, it's just a single hive on the south end of a tree line. I split up apiaries to prevent drifting and keep some distance between the colonies.
1). thumbnail 7- This is where I have the bulk of my bees. Looking West to East, this is nearly a full sun apiary. Have next to shed to prevent North winter winds, sometimes these colonies can be warmer than the others due to the sun radiating off the backside of the shed. I have a 5th wheel that parks on the gravel in the foreground in winter to prevent any West winds.
2). thumbnail 8- This is my newest apiary and my worry now that I'm reading how much shade can play into eradicating EFB. In the past I lost queens when treating with Formic Pro, often times late in the summer so when creating a new queen there wasn't enough time for the colony to ramp up for winter. With that, I ended up having to combine colonies. So, this past winter I made some 6 frame equipment in the hopes of making splits with extra queens in the event I needed them. Currently have three colonies there, and as you can see, this area is heavily shaded. If this apiary is too shaded, of course I can move it, but right now plan is to cut some of the maple branches hanging over. Even with the branches gone, sun hits it around 9-10am and then is shaded around 3pm. This apiary is located appx. 50' from #7. This apiary also sits appx. 20' from a drainage ditch which typically holds water.
3). thumbnail 9- Located appx. 600' from 7 and 8, gets full morning sun, then goes to shade appx. 3-4pm.
4). Last apiary (not pictured). Single colony along tree line, probably 80% sun. This colony is appx. 600' from #7, and 300' from #9.
thumbnail 10- I have one stand alone colony along the tree line which gets appx. 80% sun. Picture taken from the South looking North.
Good morning Meghan,
I reached out to our local Vet and since they've had very little experience dealing with EFB, they would like you to call them to confirm. The receptionist I spoke with is Emily and she can be reached at the following number
North River Animal Hospital- <personal data hidden>
------------
I have a couple of questions since we spoke I would like to bounce off you, and like before, I'll try and keep the questions so your response is more "yes or no" and not too involved.
1). Have done an inspection on two affected hives and plan on replacing empty drawn comb with the infected brood frames and then combining both colonies. Am trying to get in the habit of good disinfecting techniques. You had mentioned bleach / water which I'm now using instead of alcohol. How in depth should I be? Meaning, I understand hive tools I can drop in and replace with one that's clean, but I use other equipment and should everything I touch be disinfected?
2). When using bleach, would the EFB bacteria immediately die when being submersed, or do I need to leave my hive tool in for a period of time?
3). I have some new comb from this year stored in the basement. It came off strong colonies, and none of the comb has had any food or brood stores in it, but being that my yard is infested, I can't say for certain it hasn't had bees in contact with any affected bees. I would like to use this comb once I've done my partial shook swarm in Spring and the bees have started drawing out the foundation I'm going to give them. Is that okay, or should everything be destroyed?
4). Lastly, I have several frames in all my colonies with newer comb and would like to render the wax vs. burning. Is that okay or should I burn everything?
Thank you soooo much!!!!
Mike
I left a message at your veterinary clinic, but also sent out an email (copied you) to a group of vets within the area that may take you as a client.
1). Have done an inspection on two affected hives and plan on replacing empty drawn comb with the infected brood frames and then combining both colonies. Am trying to get in the habit of good disinfecting techniques. You had mentioned bleach / water which I'm now using instead of alcohol. How in depth should I be? Meaning, I understand hive tools I can drop in and replace with one that's clean, but I use other equipment and should everything I touch be disinfected?
There is no data on this, but it is good practice to think about regularly cleaning the things that touch the hives a lot - Hands/gloves, smokers, and hive tools. At MSU we recommend nitrile gloves or bare hands. If you have to wear leather gloves, I would keep one pair per yard, as they are hard to clean.
2). When using bleach, would the EFB bacteria immediately die when being submersed, or do I need to leave my hive tool in for a period of time?
There is no data on this yet, but we are working on it. With all disinfectants there is a time element, so I would leave them to soak a bit, like 10 min.
3). I have some new comb from this year stored in the basement. It came off strong colonies, and none of the comb has had any food or brood stores in it, but being that my yard is infested, I can't say for certain it hasn't had bees in contact with any affected bees. I would like to use this comb once I've done my partial shook swarm in Spring and the bees have started drawing out the foundation I'm going to give them. Is that okay, or should everything be destroyed?
There is no should - like we spoke on the phone, my main message is that you need to make a decision balancing your economic costs with the level of risk you are willing to accept. If you are doing only partial shook swarms (and not full shook swarms), then you will have old comb in there anyway. If you are doing full shook swarms, and doing the full yard (to try to eradicate it from that yard), then I would not put used equipment in those hives.
4). Lastly, I have several frames in all my colonies with newer comb and would like to render the wax vs. burning. Is that okay or should I burn everything?
There is no need to burn anything.
Hi Meghan,
Sent a sample of affected comb and dead bees to the USDA. Once confirmed, I will reach out to the Vet you recommended. Contemplating a full shook swarm vs. partial in Spring just to be done with this thing. Found more infected colonies upon further investigation, but those had minimal infection due to them being healthy. The heavily infected ones I removed infected brood comb and replaced and they are rebounding. I'm cleaning scraping all comb / propolis, scorching all woodenware and soaking in bleach. One question:
1). I do have a few frames of foundation that ended up on colonies, but for whatever reason were removed and put back in storage. Even though these frames were introduced and removed, are they okay to reintroduce next year? They have no drawn comb on them at all.
Lastly, I can't thank you enough for helping me get through this!!! I know you're HUGELY busy so I won't reply with thank you's, but please know that your help in getting me through this is very much appreciated!!!