Dear Mark,

I am sorry to hear that your newly planted trees are experiencing such stress.  There seems to be a debate as to what best practices are for the burlap and wire surrounding the root ball. You did not mention whether you removed the burlap and wire, but I thought you might want to read about some concerns regarding burlap and balled rooted trees:

Balled and burlap trees: Remove the burlap | Good Growing | Illinois Extension | UIUC

Tips for planting balled-burlapped trees for long-term health, success | Natural Resources | Illinois Extension | UIUC

In an article from Clemson University, soil ph recommendation was for acidic soil. See the quote below:

Although river birch thrives in wet areas, it tolerates fairly dry soils once it becomes established. However, river birch tends to shed leaves and twigs during dry spells in late summer and early fall in response to drought stress. Maintain a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch to conserve soil moisture. River birch requires acidic soils and may suffer from leaf yellowing, or chlorosis, caused by an iron deficiency at soil pH levels of 6.5 or higher.

and the entire article here:

River Birch | Home & Garden Information Center (clemson.edu)

You did not mention whether you had a soil test done prior to planting.   Based on this article below, alkaline soils are a real problem for river birch. 

River birch | UMN Extension

They do well in wet soils, and regular watering appears to be important.  Based on the information I've found, I'd want to make sure your soil ph was appropriate and maintain regular watering.  

Please feel free to reply if you have additional questions. Wishing you the best with your birch trees,

Thank you for the prompt reply.  Yes I removed all of the burlap and cage except the portion the root ball was sitting on.  I did not soil test. Not sure how to do that given that I did not mix the 3 components together (native clay soil, bagged topsoil, composted manure) as I planted, but rather layered them in about 9 layers from bottom up.

1) How would I go about submitting a soil sample?

2)How much water should I be applying and at what frequency for these trees?

Mark

Dear Mark,

I believe I'd test the soil not right in the hole but around the area that you planted the trees.  Most counties offer   soil test kits which are mailed to testing sites. Here in Lorain County the test kits cost $15 I think and go to Penn State.  It will test for ph as well as  Calcium, Magnesium, Phosphates, and not sure what else, and then give recommendations for soil improvement. It may be also that the trees are just stressed from transplanting.  Those seem like pretty large trees to plant.  

This site gives good information on watering newly planted trees. 

Watering newly planted trees and shrubs | UMN Extension

Here is information on soil testing.

Soil Testing for Ohio Lawns, Landscapes, Fruit Crops, and Vegetable Gardens | Ohioline (osu.edu)

According to the article on watering newly planted trees, they should be watered daily for the first couple weeks.  I did not know that and have probably never properly watered my new trees. I learn so much researching these questions!  Thank you for you question.  I think you will find the watering factsheet very helpful.

Dear Mark,

I am not finding any exact instructions for watering river birch. What I am finding is that it will tolerate very moist soil.  I have some on my property that are in a low spot and often are flooded in the spring.  I doubt it is possible to over-water them.   One source suggested checking the soil to make sure it is wet 3 inches down.  Some  suggest a good hour or more saturation of the soil.  It seems like the best answer is keep the soil moist for a while until the roots become better established into the soil.  Here is another factsheet on River birch. It sounds like the Heritage cultivar should be a hardy tree so hopefully this initial leaf loss is just a minor setback.

River Birch, Betula nigra – Wisconsin Horticulture

Hope the trees settle in to their new home soon.