Thanks for contacting us about your bushes. This leaf formation could be from multiple causes, and yes, a hard freeze at the time of leaf emergence might be a cause and can affect some plants and not others, depending on how the cold air settled. However, I wonder if herbicides (weed killer) might be an issue. The tufting and tiny leaves (shown in the picture) can often be an indicator. Some herbicides can volatize and settle on newly emerging leaves, other herbicides can move in water and the tree takes it up and moves it through the tree itself.

Where to go from here? In either of the above scenarios, the answer is the same. If the twigs are still supple (bendy), you can wait and see if new growth emerges (some plants have enough reserves to try to save themselves). That waiting may include seeing how they are next spring. If the twigs are not supple (are dry and snap easily), they are dead and will not recover.

If you are seeing any insects feeding (especially clusters of aphids) on newly emerging leaves, check out our fact sheet on that for solutions.

If none of this seems possible, please reply with more info and pictures and observations. What are the different plant species? What treatments and care do they receive? How old are they? Irrigation to those plants operational? Are they located in a low spot where they might be getting too much water?

These trees/bushes are under stress and it’s natural to think they may need extra water or fertilization. They do not. They just need regular care like the other trees that are doing well. If we fertilize, it forces the tree to push out new growth using up resources, and what these need is to hold onto those reserves to develop good roots and perhaps come back next spring.

A side note… Research indicates staking trees is not needed except in high wind or high traffic situations, and then for just a year. The roots need to “flex” in order to strengthen and expand. Keeping the supports on does not let them develop “muscle” – to use a human term! If you do use stakes, be sure to remove any straps, ties, bamboo posts, tags, etc. – all of which can “girdle” the tree cutting off its vascular system. Feel free to free them!

Don’t hesitate to contact us again if needed.

Karin

Thank you for this information. The bushes have never been treated with herbicides in the 5 years I have owned this property. I have similar species next to each other where one is fully leafed (normally) and the one next to it is struggling as shown in the pictures. I have the issue with some roses, the bushes I have already shared, and the ones in the attached. Some portions on some of the plants are alive and other portions of that same plant are definitely dead. The 3 dogwood plants were all newly planted late summer last year.

Kathy,
Good morning. Karin is off for the week and I am answering emails.

With the additional pictures, I agree with you that this may be winter kill. We did have a sub-zero period (-25) this last winter that was capable of doing significant damage. The bushes all were effected in different ways depending on how strong they were.

What has not been discussed is winter watering of both newly planted and mature bushes (and trees). Are you winter watering your bushes? Our winters in CO are so dry that bushes (and trees) benefit from winter watering. From the fact sheet below: "Herbaceous perennials and ground covers in exposed sites are more subject to winter freezing and thawing. This opens cracks in soil that expose roots to cold and drying. Winter watering combined with mulching can prevent this damage."

https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/fall-and-winter-watering-7-211/#:~:text=Herbaceous%20perennials%20and%20ground%20covers,%2C%20Mulches%20for%20Home%20Grounds.

And I note in the pictures that the bushes are in gravel. You might consider removing the gravel around the root zones of the bushes and putting organic mulch there instead. CSU most frequently recommends gravel mulch for use in gardens with drought tolerant plants. Organic mulch may control temp and water content more effectively for your bushes going forward. See this fact sheet for different types of organic mulch:

https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/mulches-for-home-grounds-7-214/

Karin advised against giving the bushes EXTRA water which I agree with. AND: one other issue to check is to make sure all the bushes (even if they are mature) are getting at least some water during the growing period. If they are on an automated system, check to make sure the emitters are working and delivering enough water to each bush in the root zone and not right at the base of the plant. Hand water if not on a system.

Hope this helps. Please let us know if you have any other questions.

Ruth, Weld CMG

Ruth,

Kathy,

Sounds like good plans for going forward.

Good that the bushes are on the sprinkling system and be cautious to assume it is operating sufficiently. I have made this mistake before. I realize what I am suggesting is a lot of work but it will be worth it.

1. If you have not already done this, actually pull back the gravel or mulch on each bush/plant to watch the emitters when that station is running to make sure the emitters are actually putting out water and that it is the right amount of water for the bushes.  You may need to put larger emitters on to support mature bushes.

2. When drip system emitters are originally installed, this is done for the size of and in the root zones of young bushes and plants. Is a good idea when you pull back the mulch or gravel to check and/or replace the emitters that you move them out into the root zone of the maturing and mature plants so the water that is coming out of the emitters is getting to the roots. 

Please let us know if you have any other thoughts or questions.

Happy Gardening!

Ruth