Thanks for you question.  It has been assigned to me.  For me to give you the best advice, I need to see pictures of the actual reports.  Only the first page would be necessary. It would appear that you have four separate reports.

Thanks and we will look forward to receiving them.

Thanks for the soil reports.  I can completely understand why they might be confusing.  I will look them over this evening and get back to you.  I think that I can simplify things a bit and get you back into your garden!

Thanks again for consulting us.

Thanks for your question and soil reports. Here are my thoughts:

1). All four reports indicate your gardens have coarse textures. This means there is potentially poor water retention and continual, regular watering should be done.

2). Three reports (#175719, # 175720, #175721) indicate good organic matter contents of 7% or greater. I suspect that you might be annually adding compost (leaves? grass clippings?) to these three gardens. Compost will enhance the water retention of the soil and will offset the coarse soil texture. I believe that these organic matter levels are the reason for the high phosphorous levels in these three gardens. As organic matter (e.g., leaves) decompose, phosphate is added to the soil. There really should be little concern about these phosphate levels and no remedial action is necessary. Just be aware that when you add compost, you will have high soil phosphorous levels.

3). Report #175718 indicated a lesser percentage of organic matter although this, too, elevated soil phosphate.

4.) For these four samples, I believe that we can put potassium (potash) aside. All reports indicated either medium or very high existing levels. These are acceptable.

5). The primary issue to confront is the amount of soil nitrogen. A common misconception among gardeners is that compost (organic matter) is rich in nutrients. This really is not true, since during the decomposition of this organic material nutrients are used up. This is why all your reports recommend nitrogen amendment. See:

https://ag.umass.edu/vegetable/fact-sheets/compost-use-soil-fertility - :~:text=In most cases, finished compost,of time than chemical fertilizers.

6). For gardens such as yours, I always think a slow-release fertilizer is wise.  As the name suggests, the nutrients are slowly released over time and do not quickly leach out. Given the coarse textures of your soils, a slow-release fertilizer remains longer within the soil. There are fertilizers available that are treated with osmocote to slow down the release of fertilizer nutrients. Not only are they a bit pricey, but usually come with phosphate and potassium. You really have no need for these latter two items.

7). So I suggest that you meet your nitrogen recommendation by using blood meal. It contains 12% nitrogen. It is available at most garden centers. It is slow releasing.

8). Here’s the deal. For your three vegetable gardens, the recommendation is 0.15 pounds of nitrogen/100 sq feet. In 1.25 pounds of blood meal, there will be 0.15 pounds of nitrogen. Incorporate 1.25 pounds of blood meal into every 100 square feet of garden. Water it in well. This will meet the report’s recommendation.

9). For trees and fruits, incorporate 1.0 pound of blood meal into every 100 square feet. Water it in well. This will be slightly over the recommendation in the report, but I don’t think it will be consequential.

Good luck and please get back to us with any questions.