Looking at the pictures attached, it would appear that the apricot tree has been affected by high moisture in the bark that then froze, thus splitting the bark.  Hopefully you have selected a variety that does well in your USDA growing zone.  Hopefully the trees are where they get plenty of direct sunlight.  In order to take up nutrients needed, the soil pH needs to be just slightly acidic at around 6.5 to about neutral.  With the right light, good drainage, and the right soil growing conditions, you should be able to enjoy your fruit trees.  When leaves do come on, keep an eye out for shothole disease that will cause leaves to have holes of various sizes in the leaves.  This is a common disease issue in the Piedmont of Virginia.  This is something that can be addressed with a copper-based fungicides or Bordeaux mix, following the instructions on the label for Apricots. In the 2-year-old tree, it is heavily mulched up to the crown of the plant.  You will want to pull away the mulch from the crown, make sure the plant isn't planted below grade and that voles have not caused damage to the bark around the crown/base of the tree.  With our continually changing temp & humidity changes over the past few weeks, blossoms have come, and in our case, locally, they had been exposed to frost while in bloom causing the blooms to drop or brown out.  Imperfect blooms will cause drop or imperfect fruit.  We won't have fruit this year on many of our prunus trees such as apricot and plum. Please let me know if you need more information.  Here is a pruning video from MSU that may be of help to you. 

Apricot Tree Training Year 3 (youtube.com)

As long as the stems/branches are pliable and green, there is still life in the tree.  Make sure the trees have good drainage, no damage to the crown/base of the tree and pull back the mulch...don't give up hope on them.  If you can get a root sample, see if it is tan in color or is dark brown in color and when you take your fingernails, try to pull the outer epidermis off.  If it is firm, also look to see if there are hard, swollen knots, or galls.  One question that I forgot to ask was how much annual growth did you have in 2023?  Stunted growth can also give you an idea of the health of the plant and the health of the soil.  I really couldn't tell from the pictures.

I can attach photo of the growth from last year until now. 

I will await your photo.  When planting the trees, did you fertilize?   If so, what did you use?  Apricots normally do not need fertilizer the first couple of years and only need once you start letting them bear fruit.  Then you use something like 10-10-10 or 12-12-12.  In the first couple of years, it is not unusual to see 10-20" of growth, then once they start bearing, it will drop to 6-10" of vegetative growth. 

I didn’t fertilize? When I bought it, they told me no need for fertilizer and I plant it only I watering it regularly. 

All fruit trees require a well-drained soil.  If you have had too much rain, roots will be starved of oxygen, and you can end up with root rot.  If you have standing water, you will need to move the mulch and create a temporary drain away ditch. 

Thank you very much I really appreciate your help. 

On Wednesday, May 8, 2024, 5:01 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

Good morning. 

In looking at the pictures you sent, I seen where the epidermis of some roots is missing, and the remaining root shows reddish-brown discoloration of the inner portion of the root.  The soil texture shows the aggregate to be wet (sticking to the roots-mud) and in need of better drainage. What I believe is happening is simply oxygen starvation due to too much moisture (root asphyxiation).  The stems are still alive by your description, and you can possibly help the trees further by using a copper-based fungicide which should help with the 'root rot' issues.  Spray it around the base of the tree, only after you have improved drainage to help stop the root rot.  Whether it is Amarilla or Phytophthora, I am unable to say, but both cause serious damage to the roots of most of our prunus fruit trees.  If the roots are not too damaged, they will start producing new feeder roots and new foliage should start appearing.  I would not encourage any fruit production this year and let the trees produce vegetative growth to get them back to good health. 

FYI - Pulling from a MSU Extension publication, "Phytophthora-infected trees are likely to be localized in low-lying, historically wet areas of the orchard or in areas with heavy soils."