A bit more information will help us make some recommendations:
How much direct summer sun is the area exposed to?
Do deer visit the yard and browse regularly?
What is the maximum height a plant can mature to without having to rely on pruning to restrict growth?
Privacy plantings are often evergreen, but sometimes gardeners don't need winter screening...do you need the plants to be evergreen, or can they be deciduous (or a mix)? We have few native evergreen shrubs.

Miri

Thanks! Attached is a picture of what the area looks like. 

Hello Shana,

Thank you for the information and photo.

Spicebush (Lindera benzoin) grows best as an understory shrub, shaded during the hottest part of the day by taller plants/trees, though we've seen it handle full sun moderately well. (The leaves will stay smaller in response to the intense light, so it might look sparser overall. It also will be more vulnerable to drought, though, if not kept moist, which might not be practical for this planting area.)

Maryland is home to several Viburnum species, many of which can handle full sun well as long as they don't go through drought without some supplemental watering as needed. Mature size varies depending on species (and cultivar in some cases), but generally ranges from 6 to 10 feet in height, and at least two-thirds of that in width, if not equally wide. Pruning can limit the size to some extent, but eventually pruning will come at the expense of flowers and berries. Our native Viburnum are excellent for seasonal aesthetic interest (like berry and autumn leaf colors) and wildlife value, though, so they still may be good to include.

Bear in mind that most Viburnums require cross-pollination in order to produce berries (if you want that feature), which means that a solo plant will not be able to pollinate itself. There are some exceptions, like the cultivar 'Brandywine' of Witherod (Viburnum nudum), which can produce berries by itself. When cross-pollination is needed, two individuals of the same species need to be used, but they cannot be the same cultivar, since cultivars are genetically identical in this situation and will not cross-pollinate because their pollen is the same. For example, if growing Arrowood Viburnum (Viburnum dentatum), if you chose to plant the cultivar 'Blue Muffin', you'd use any other Arrowwood cultivar except a second 'Blue Muffin' as the pollinator. Then, each shrub will be able to fruit as insects pollinate the flowers. Some nursery growers have been putting two plants in the same pot and marketing them as self-pollinating for simplicity, which in effect they are because they're kept together upon planting and treated as if they were one shrub, which is fine if that's what you prefer. Very few are available this way; we're aware of one at least, which is sold with the tag name 'Glitters & Glows'. Not every species of native Viburnum has that sort of pollinator-included option, though. If you prefer to avoid cultivars and just want to plant the plain species, that's fine, and any two individual plants (since they tend to be seed-grown in that case, and thus will be genetically unique) should be compatible for cross-pollination. Be aware that that genetic uniqueness means that their eventual mature size and traits like abundance of bloom and autumn leaf color richness can vary as a result, since these traits are more reliably consistent within a cultivar.

For a mostly-sunny location with some deer browsing pressure, native, and not too big, below are a few ideas. Some will be evergreen, but most will not, since there are very few candidates among natives that meet all these criteria. Botanical names are in parentheses, since common names sometimes vary.

• Bayberry / Waxmyrtle (Myrica, sometimes under the alternate genus name Morella; either species M. pensylvanica or M. cerifera as both are native in Maryland) -- evergreen nature varies with plant genetics and weather, ranging from mostly-evergreen to mostly-deciduous; while the wild type may grow too large for this space, dwarf cultivars should fit, though they can be harder to find at nurseries; only female plants produce berries and require a male for pollination, but plants of known sex can similarly be hard to find (often the cultivars are sexed, though)
• Common Juniper (Juniperus communis) -- evergreen; there are a couple cultivars ('Gold Cone' and 'Compressa') that maintain a dense, slender, upright growth habit on their own, though growth is fairly slow; full sun is ideal for best color and growth; avoid pruning, though it would take them many years to exceed 6 feet in height
• Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana) -- evergreen; might be too tall when mature, since most cultivars will reach about 15 feet or so after about ten+ years in the ground, but we'll include it in case it's useful; most cultivars are slender, though could still reach about 5 feet wide at the base, tapering to a narrower top; cultivars 'Blue Arrow' (not to be confused with the western native Juniperus scopulorum cultivar by the same name) and 'Taylor' are more columnar at only about 2 to 3 feet wide; here too, full sun is ideal, but they will tolerate a little bit of shade
• Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia) -- deciduous; prefers damp soils, but can handle average soil that doesn't stay too dry for very long; generally upright in shape, being taller than wide, but this can depend on the cultivar, as dwarf forms (which may be too short for your uses) are more rounded; some suckering (growing more stems from the root system) can occur when plants are in an ideal spot; very fragrant flowers; late to leaf-out in spring, so may take an extra couple weeks or so to put out new growth after other plants have already broken dormancy (a harmless trait but one which sometimes makes gardeners think it died over the winter); flexible as to how much sun or shade they get
• Inkberry Holly (Ilex glabra) -- evergreen; while potentially too tall (eventually) for your use, and dwarf forms may be too short, there is a fairly new cultivar ('Squeeze Box') that supposedly stays more narrow if width is a concern; it's natural for any Inkberry to be more sparse in its interior and lowermost branches compared to other evergreen hollies, and generally they should not be regularly pruned as this might exacerbate that trait; tolerates some shade, but more shade = more of a leafless interior to the shrub
• Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) -- while not evergreen per se, the dead leaves in autumn do tend to stay standing upright all winter, until they are cut back around March; mature height depends on cultivar, but for the wild type, a 5 to 8-foot range is typical
• Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia) -- deciduous, but with showy fall foliage color; may sucker a bit, though still usually taller than wide (and extra suckers can just be pruned off); often mature in the 6 to 9-foot height range

Here are some evergreen non-invasive non-native options, in case the candidates above are too limiting:

• Western Arborvitae (Thuja plicata, not to be confused with Eastern, Thuja occidentalis, which deer love) -- while most varieties will get much too tall, there are a couple dwarf forms that stay more slender and mature shorter (though still likely close to 8-10 feet high or so)
• various Holly hybrids (Ilex) -- mature height varies considerably based on cultivar, but as a group, they tolerate trimming well, though you should still work with one that matures reasonably close to the desired size so pruning is kept to a minimum; some are self-fruitful, which means they can produce berries without pollination; those with prickly foliage will be more reliably avoided by deer than those with less-sharp foliage
• Boxwood (Buxus, several species and hybrids) -- look for varieties that tout good disease resistance (like for Boxwood Blight) and pest resistance (mainly for Boxwood Leafminer); several varieties exist that grow upright, with a slender pyramidal shape, though boxwoods tolerate trimming well (still, don't plan on trimming them heavily or too often); growth rate is fairly slow compared to other evergreens
• Japanese Plum Yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia, not to be confused with "true" yews, genus Taxus) -- cultivars 'Fastigiata' (all green) and 'Korean Gold' (green with yellow highlights) are both upright, staying relatively narrow and maturing in the 8-foot-tall ballpark (eventually...growth is not very fast)

Miri