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Laurel hedge disease #867360
Asked May 07, 2024, 1:24 AM EDT
Washington County Oregon
Expert Response
Begin forwarded message:
From: Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>>
Date: May 6, 2024 at 10:24:10 PM PDT
To: Lynne Winkler <<personal data hidden>>
Subject: Thank you for your Ask Extension question (#0137281)
Dear Lynne,
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YOUR QUESTION #0137281:
Laurel hedge disease
Hello, I have a 30+ year old laurel hedge that appears to be dying. Can you tell me what is sassing this and if there is anything I can do to save it? Thank you.Ask Extension offers one-to-one expert answers from Cooperative Extension/University staff and volunteers within participating Land-Grant institutions across the United States.
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To try this, I need a closer photo of a branch showing the place where it goes from alive to dead, if possible. A couple of distant views also. You need to illustrate the whole thing so we can see any pattern to the dead spots.
How far back does the fully dead area reach? Dead is brittle and no green if you scratch the bark. Are these limbs dead clear to the trunk? Do you see lesions on the trunk bark?
Then also, tell me everything you can think of about it. When did this start and how fast is it changing? What fertilizer or herbicides have been used in the area, and when. Describe summer irrigation. Has any construction or ditching been done?
I hope we can get this, but it does become sort of a game of 20 questions.
Photos are attached.
More photos
Last 2 photos.
On May 9, 2024, at 4:26 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
Last 2 photos.
Another idea is that your plant is burned by something like hot exhaust from a car, truck, or maybe a gas powered hedge trimmer tool?
On May 9, 2024, at 9:47 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
On May 9, 2024, at 9:47 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
What to do? I’ll list resources for you because there are more steps than I can write up on this forum. Especially chemical control needs to be carefully timed and follow insecticide labels exactly.
For right now, get the heavily infected dead and dying parts removed and off of your property rather than composting onsite. Do this right away because it’s time for eggs to hatch and the crawling stage to spread into new parts of your shrubs.
The pages I’m sharing give instructions about applying sticky tape to catch crawlers. I don’t think you’ll trap all of them, but it is a good way to monitor when the critters are there. A 10x magnifier can help you see them. I’ve used the magnifier app on my phone sometimes.
The “biological control” listed is other insects eating these, so don’t rush out with broad spectrum insecticide. Instead, follow the cultural controls listed first. Prune, scrape, water correctly but don’t fertilize.
Don’t be dismayed and give up on the plants yet. English laurel can regrow even if you nearly cut it to the ground, which is called “rejuvenation pruning”. My mother’s Camellia shrub was covered with scale a few years ago. We pruned off what we could and watered it better to keep it strong. The scale is gone and the plant shape filled back in. Perhaps the plant defenses took over, or predatory insects cleaned it up. If you decide pesticides are necessary but you are unable to apply them correctly yourself, consider hiring a certified arborist company with licensing to do it for you.
Okay, here’s those information pages to read before you actually do anything.
PNW Handbook Azalea Bark Scale page.
Landscape plants scale insects page of the PNW Handbook. Note the different control options.
The PNW Handbook page for chemical control of landscape pests.
(Oh, and I’m attaching the zoomed in version of your photo.)
On May 10, 2024, at 7:42 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
Exactly where you prune to is a bit of an art. Generally take a branch back the it’s base, so the don’t have lots of little stubs.
Oh, and sweep up leaves and squirt off pavement when done, since goal is to send insects on their way.