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Lawn Fertilizer question #866603

Asked May 01, 2024, 12:06 PM EDT

I recently completed a soil test through UMN, and my results said I should use a nitrogen/phosphate/potash ratio of 4-1-4. I've historically used TruGreen, who applies a 25-0-5 fertilizer. My question is, should I be adding 4-1-4 to my current regimen of 25-0-5 for a total of 29-1-9? Or is 25-0-5 too much nitrogen for my lawn and therefore I should try to apply only a 4-1-4? I hope my question makes sense. Basically I'm just wondering if I'm applying too much nitrogen or if I should continue to do what I've been doing. Thanks for your help!!

Anoka County Minnesota

Expert Response

Thanks for your question.  It has been assigned to me.  I want to give you a complete and accurate answer,  For me to do that, I would like to look at the soil report.  I only need the first page showing the results.  Could you please take a picture of it and send to me?

Many thanks??

An Ask Extension Expert Replied May 01, 2024, 2:53 PM EDT
Sure! Here's a screenshot. Let me know if you need anything else, and again, I appreciate your help!

On Wed, May 1, 2024, 1:53 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
The Question Asker Replied May 01, 2024, 3:00 PM EDT

Thanks for the question and the soil report.

Let me make a few observations about this report before directly answering your question.

1). Your soil texture is coarse. This indicates a large amount of sand present. This is very typical of lawns in Anoka County. Water retention by your soil will not be great. This will lead to browning of your turf in August unless you have a very extensive watering system.

2). The organic content (3.2%) is good but could be improved. If you or your lawn service currently is bagging grass cuttings after mowing, I would suggest you discontinue doing this. If left on the ground, these cuttings will quickly decompose and improve the water retention of your turf. Speaking of mowing, maintain a grass height of AT LEAST 3 INCHES. See:

https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/mowing-practices-healthy-lawns - :~:text=For a typical residential Midwest,withstand drought and reach nutrients.

3). The pH of 6.9 is adequate for grass. This is why no lime addition was specified.

4). Don’t concern yourself with the phosphate content as this can fluctuate widely with time in a yard. It will be fine if there is no phosphate in any fertilizer you might add.

5). The amount of nitrogen is most critical for maintaining your turf in a healthy state.

It would be acceptable to continue only using your 25-0-5. By adjusting how you apply this, there should be no problem with excessive nitrogen. Your report suggested a fertilizer ratio of 4-1-4, in which there would be equal amounts of nitrogen and potash. Your 25-0-5 fertilizer does not meet this. However at the bottom of your report is the statement that the priority should be to provide sufficient nitrogen even though this might entail some compromise of the potash.

Our calculations will proceed as follows:

1. The nitrogen recommendation is 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet. We will meet this recommendation by applying your 25-0-5 at two different times, this spring and next fall. Again look at the notes at the bottom of the report where it indicates that only 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet should be added in any one application. So you will apply 1 pound nitrogen/1,000 square feet now (early May 2024) and another 1 pound of nitrogen/1,000 square feet early next September.

2. In one pound of your 25-0-5, there is 0.25 pounds of nitrogen (25%). So to get 1 pound nitrogen/1,000 square feet now, apply 4 pounds/1,000 square feet of 25-0-5 to your lawn this spring. Then this coming September, apply another 4 pounds/1,000 square feet of 25-0-5.

3. Now here is a problem that you might encounter. TruGreen may not want to follow this regime. That will be a matter between you and TruGreen. I can only make a recommendation based upon the soil report.

4. And that should do it. The potash will take care of itself. Don’t be too concerned about it.

Good luck. Please get back to us with any further questions.

An Ask Extension Expert Replied May 01, 2024, 11:41 PM EDT
Thank you so much for the detailed response! 

Your first numbered point may have been the most helpful. My lawn does get brown in August despite my use of an irrigation system! I have one more question for you: 

 I water deeply twice a week in the summer because it's what I saw recommended online. Since my soil is sandy, should I water less deeply more often in August? Some of my neighbors water their lawns lightly but daily and I've been wondering if they know something I don't.


On Wed, May 1, 2024, 10:41 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
The Question Asker Replied May 03, 2024, 6:18 PM EDT

Thanks for your response. 

During periods of light rain (e.g. August), it is quite natural for turf to turn brown and enter a state oddormancy. This will especially be the case if some or all of your lawn consists of bluegrass. This is why we often suggest incorporating various types of fescue into the turf. It is more drought resistant than bluegrass. 

Your watering schedule during the hot months is EXACTLY what we recommend. It will promote grass roots to extend deeper into the soil.  This will lead to a more robust turf growth in September. 

Unfortunately what certain of your neighbors are doing during August, by watering lightly, is to encourage the turf roots to remain close to the top of the soil.   This will not lead to a vigorous turf. Maintain your watering schedule. You are doing the best thing!  
 
Again, don’t hesitate to contact us if you have further questions. 

An Ask Extension Expert Replied May 03, 2024, 11:30 PM EDT

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