Turf Brow Spots in Lino Lakes - Ask Extension
This is the second summer we have experienced some major brown spots in our turf. Unfortunately, this year these spots are right in the front and cent...
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Turf Brow Spots in Lino Lakes #806719
Asked August 17, 2022, 12:36 PM EDT
This is the second summer we have experienced some major brown spots in our turf. Unfortunately, this year these spots are right in the front and center of our yard! I am assuming this is related to heat stress but also wondering if I made it worse with some extra focused watering? I have an irrigation system with a Rachio controller so there were a number of days the system limited the watering days based on rain forecasts. When I returned from a week's vacation in early July and saw the spots worsening, I did some extra watering in the spots thinking it would bounce back. It only seemed to get a bit worse. I did put a shovel in the ground in a few spots but did not see any grub worms. It is definitely not pet urine-related as our Golden Retriever only uses our backyard -- and my backyard looks fantastic! I use the Scotts Turf Builder 4-5 step program. I did Crabgrass Preventer on May 7, Weed and Feed on June 18, GrubX applied on July 6 (was this too late?), and Fall Fertilizer applied recently on August 14. Can you advise what I should do at this point? I am thinking next steps are core aeriation and over-seed? I also have some of the Scotts repair soil and could add some seed but wanted your opinion before I took that step. For the big dead spot near the curb, I was planning to get a roll or two of sod to replace. Thanks for your help!
Anoka County Minnesota
Expert Response
I am giving you some links for homework. You do not mention the type of soil you have and that will also make a difference. Sandy soil needs more water. Clay does note drain well and can become mucky. If you have spread soil or compost on the top of the lawn and it was not worked in. you could have a layered effect. Does the sod pull up easily along the curb? If it does, it probably was caused by grubs. Grubs will not be under the dead area but have moved on to greener spots. The spots can just be raked and dead grass removed and reseeded. You should keep your grass at 3". Do not cut short. The 4-5 Step Program may be excessive. Please look at our Lawn Care Calendar. Open the drop down boxes in all the links and read the information to see what applies to your problem.
Fall turf grass problems? Grubs might be the culprit | UMN Extension
Fertilizing lawns | UMN Extension
Lawn care calendar | UMN Extension
Fall turf grass problems? Grubs might be the culprit | UMN Extension
Fertilizing lawns | UMN Extension
Lawn care calendar | UMN Extension
Thanks for your response. Our soil type is clay. I did have them apply black dirt when the lawn was soded originally in 2002. As for Grub Worms, I did apply Scotts Grub X on July 6. Wondering if that was too late? If I find grubs, should I apply again at this late stage of season? I agree with you on the grass height. Once I raised the mower deck, the law looked much heathier. Is there a point this fall where I should lower it again?
Thanks,
Mike G.
Please read through the link on grubs again. It is probably too late in the year to treat now and you need to try to figure which type of grub you have. June beetles and Japanese beetles are treated at different times. But early spring might be the best bet if you do feel you have a grub problem. Otherwise July/August might work for JB. You can remove the dead grass. Scratch up the soil to loosen it and then seed with a little bit of soil mixed in and firmed up. Then water, water if it doesn't rain. When you are doing the last cutting of grass for the year, you can drop your deck to 2" to help prevent snow mold.
Dear Ask Extension Team,
I am having a much bigger problem this year with my front lawn and “brown areas” where it appears the turf is either dying or gone dormant. The areas do not get much shade and I have had mower height at 3” all year and recently raised to 3-1/2”. The soil is clay but was topped with black dirt when sod was installed 21 years ago. I applied Scott’s Halts with Crabgrass Preventer on May 16 and treated with Scott’s GrubX on May 21. I have been watering approximately every other day before sunrise (about 25 minutes a zone) with time off after decent rains. Can’t seem to get the brown areas to rebound. My neighbor does not take care of his lawn and has same issue and I wonder if a disease has spread to mine? Question: would it be beneficial to try some Scott’s Fertilizer with SummerGuard this week in an effort to feed the lawn and give it a boost? Scott’s generally recommends Early Spring, Late Spring, Early Fall, and Late Fall. Frustrating to work this hard and have a crummy looking lawn.
Thanks,
Mike Gebeke
On 08/18/2022 5:02 PM CDT Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
With your clay and the fact that the black dirt was just put on top of it all those years ago, it is very possible your soil is compacted. It would be good to aerate the entire lawn to relieve that compaction. After that you can rake up the dead grass and put down seed mixed with compost. Some grasses do go dormant in the heat but a mixture should contain some varieties that do not. You want good soil/seed interaction. Do not fertilize again until late fall. This time of year will only stress the new shoots of grass. If you think you may have a disease, please read through the information from Purdue. They have what I consider the best description of grass diseases: https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/bp/bp-124-w.pdf
With your clay and the fact that the black dirt was just put on top of it all those years ago, it is very possible your soil is compacted. It would be good to aerate the entire lawn to relieve that compaction. After that you can rake up the dead grass and put down seed mixed with compost. Some grasses do go dormant in the heat but a mixture should contain some varieties that do not. You want good soil/seed interaction. Do not fertilize again until late fall. This time of year will only stress the new shoots of grass. Try reading the information in this link to Purdue if you think you may have a disease. They have the best online information: https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/bp/bp-124-w.pdf
One clarifying question. As I look at my lawn, it is really an issue of “yellowing” in large sections, not brown. My neighbor has similar swatches through his lawn. Seems like with more water, it really doesn’t change. Is yellowing a sign of something other than fraught or heat stress.
thanks,
Mike G.
On 07/10/2023 8:55 PM CDT Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
There may be summer patch happening. There are fungicides available at garden centers for lawn diseases. You can try that if you are sure it is not grubs.
Barbara,
I followed your advice from last summer and had my lawn aerated and overseeded. I also added black dirt to areas that were completely stressed and re-seeded. I ruled out Grubs since I checked with a shovel and had also put down a Grub preventer at stat of last season.
I still have a number of areas in my front lawn that seem to have more thatch than green grass (photos attached). Question: Since I have not put down my Scotts Crabgrass Preventer or my Scotts Grubex yet, would it make sense to have my lawn de-thatched or should I have it aerated again? My back yard is southern facing on a downward slope and it looks as green as a golf course. My front yard, however, continues to be a headache and a challenge.
Thanks,
Mike Gebeke
On 08/19/2022 4:44 PM CDT Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
I would think about removing much of that dead grass. It probably is not very thick so a healthy raking may remove it. Then seed and water. You can try mixing your seed with some soil. That will prevent the seed being put down too thickly, hide it from birds and hopefully give it a headstart on rooting in. The season is just starting so give it some time to grow after all your hard word. Good luck. I also have an area in my backyard with the same problem and am going to take my own advice.
Barbara, thanks for your note. Only concern is it’s getting late in Spring to apply the Scott’s with Crabgrass preventer. They recommend before the fourth mowing and I’ve mowed twice already. They have told me one it’s applied, it puts down a barrier and grass seed won’t germinate for many weeks. Could I get new seeds to sprout in a week or so?
Thanks,
Mike G
On 05/06/2024 5:03 PM CDT Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
Don't worry about crabgrass preventatives. Do your seeding and watering. If some crabgrass does appear late in the year, you can either dig it out (that is quite easy to do) or apply one of the products meant to kill crabgrass AFTER it has emerged. They work quite well too. Your thicker grass will discourage crabgrass.
