Hi, Is it possible to plant potatoes for a fall harvest in Benton County? Thanks, Kim
Hi - I have two questions. 1) All of the tomatoes coming in on my plants are elongated. They are all in pots, rather than the ground and get full afternoon sun. This is the first time I've planted tomatoes in pots. What would be the cause of this? 2) My hostas are looking very sad this year. This one is the biggest one and is in the worst shape, but the smaller plants are also developing these holes and cracks. The plants get morning sun and plenty of hydration.
Polk County OR Posted 3 days ago
Hi! One of my four tomatillos is yellowing with curled leaves. I’ve amended with Epsom Salt solution and NPK with no change in the condition. The other three plants (in the same box, one foot apart) are in the same planter box. Is this a possible virus? If so, should I destroy it so that it does not spread?
Some of my pumpkins and squash plants have a strange looks to the new growth in the leaves. They’re bubbly, ill-shaped, and sometimes ruffled.
I have 6 aspen trees I planted about 7 years ago. Never should have done it but the landscaper didn't warn me about the shoots. Well, this year they were absolutely everywhere. We hadn't dug them out last year as we usually do. My husband painstakingly dug them all up this summer and some of the roots were 1 1/2 to 2 inches thick - seriously. What can we do about the trees?? Cut them down, kill them?? If we kill them, they'll be unsightly, but wouldn't that kill the shoots as well? I've heard if you cut them down, you'll just get more shoots as they try to replenish themselves. We're in our late 70's so these able bodies are getting less so each year. HELP!
I have a problem with cheatgrass in my back yard and on one side of my house. I hate the stuff. Seems like a fire hazard and is hurting my dogs- have had to bring one of my dogs to the vet twice in the last month to get cheatgrass removed. I want it gone. Willing to replace it with whatever would help prevent it from growing back. Do you have suggestions on best ways to get rid of it and prevent it from growing back? I'm fearful of using herbicides- scared of harming myself, other vegetation, or my pets. Also, not the most physically strong or able-bodied so ripping it all up by hand myself is not an option and don't know if that is a hirable service or who to call. Any suggestions would be most appreciated! Thank you so much!
Let me preface that I am new to gardening in this county. I'm from Multnomah, Clackamas and Washington counties. I have planted my first garden here in Mosier. I transplanted a cucumber, spaghetti squash, summer squash and pumpkin plants. The seed planting of the summer squashes succumbed to a cut worm before I detected what was happening and how to protect the seedlings. Now something is eating the leaves of the cucurbits, except maybe the watermelon. It looks like lace in just a day or two with just the veins remaining. The pumpkin plant is only hanging on due to its rapid growth. It doesn't appear to be a leaf miner as there is nothing left of the leaf between the veins. What is eating it and what do you suggest to do to protect these plants? I have a neighbor a football field away that is having the same issue. Thanks!
Wasco County Oregon cucumber beetles Posted 10 days ago
Greetings! Here is our scenario: Next Spring we want to use straw/hay in two ways: planting directly in bales and scattering on the ground for mulch and weed control. I have read that hay is better than straw for planting in bales because it contains fewer seeds. A search on Craigslist reveals people selling "straw hay" of different varieties. These are my questions: 1. What is "straw hay?" Is this a way to describe straw or hay, or is it something else? 2. Do you think it will work reasonably well for bale planting and weed control? 2. Is the variety (e.g. alfalfa) important for our purposes? 3. When is the best season to get straw and hay? 4. Do you know of any good sources other than what I might find on Craigslist? Thank you!
Benton County Oregon mulch Posted 13 days ago
1. should i stop watering/fertilizing, it's a waste? the corn is 3.5' high max and beginning to tassel. is this crop lost and i should stop? i've grown the same seed pack corn for the previous 3 years successfully, 8' to 12' and delicious. (territorial organic). i start indoor T5 in 1/4 cup peat pots, put outside and we had cold, wet... 2. same as corn, 3 years growing same melon pack of seeds. these fast (small/round) 60-65-70 day cantaloupe, watermelon but i over nitrogen fert burned them. after 4 days i figured it out and flushed them for 3 days in a row until clear water out the bottom. even the first day after flushing they all looked much better in new growth. (same with the cucumbers, new growth looking good). but should i give up, it's too late for fast melons to mature this season? how i burned them. this if the first year i used BIO-LIVE 5-4-2 to recondition last years soil, covered with tarps. this year was cold wet and no heat to generate activity in the soil pile. the soil temp was 68F when i had to use it. last years i used VEGAN MIX 3-2-2 about 2 cups per 25 gallons of soil, covered and when i put it into fabric pots the soil was 85F to 90F. the BIO-LIVE has higher numbers, added i pushed them to much twice per week 3.7-2.7-3.7 organic liquid fert, 2 tablespoons per gal. everything except corn are in 20-30 gal fabric pots and i have a plastic covered roofing area i can drag them under in sept if the weather goes bad. so i can keep them rain dry but the dew wafts in the covered area. (now everything is in full sun.) the tomatoes got all the same fert but didn't show nitrogen burn but i flushed them too. 3. do u find it useful to use non-chlorinated water on A. potted vegetables/melons? B. on household yard flowers, bushes, trees, fruit trees, grapes, pears? i purchased "PHC BioPak A water-soluble, kelp based inoculant with beneficial bacteria. Contains nitrogen and phosphorus-fixing bacteria." i was told to use non-chlorinated water with this. then i thought does using chlorinated water on the other days kill off the what's in the soil? i'm including link to show expert, you can remove link after u look at it. https://vitallandscaping.com/product/phc-biopak-bacterial-inoculant/ the attached corn image appears large, it's no higher than 3.5' in back, the front was started 4 weeks later so it's short but should have worked during a normal year.
Douglas County Oregon corn Posted 19 days ago
Moist environment, fungus gnats have been seen in the past.... Thank you